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Our holiday in South East England


The Art of Doing Absolutely Nothing in an expensive way:

There comes a moment in every sensible person's life when they look at their annual leave balance and think, "I really ought to do something with that." Not something strenuous, mind you. Not a city break involving 40,000 steps a day and a blister the size of a crumpet. No, what you want is the South East of England, a luxury cottage, and the unapologetic right to do absolutely nothing at all.
Let us begin with the cottage itself. I am talking about the sort of place where the kitchen has an Aga the size of a small car and the sofa has clearly been upholstered by someone who actually cares whether you live or die. There will be a wood-burning stove, because nothing says "I have escaped the rat race" quite like pretending you are a Victorian shepherd while sipping a £14 bottle of Malbec from the local vineyard. The beds will have approximately 47 pillows each, all of them unnecessary, and the bathroom will feature a freestanding tub positioned strategically in front of a window overlooking a meadow. You will take one bath, realise you are essentially performing for a startled herd of cows, and then never close the curtains because you have become that person now.
The South East gets a bit of stick for being "too close to London," as if proximity to the capital is some kind of moral failing. Rubbish. What it means is that you can get there without spending eight hours on the M5 questioning every decision that led you to Devon in August. Within an hour or two of leaving the city, you are in the Kent Downs, where the hills roll about like a green duvet someone has forgotten to straighten, or the Sussex Weald, which sounds like a medical condition but is in fact rather lovely.
Kent, the Garden of England, is not merely a marketing slogan invented by someone who had never been to Cornwall. The gardens at Sissinghurst are genuinely spectacular, particularly if you enjoy looking at plants while thinking, "I should really do more weeding." The castle at Leeds is perfectly decent too, though I maintain the best bit is the maze, mostly because watching other adults panic in a hedge never gets old. If you are feeling particularly energetic, walk a stretch of the North Downs Way. It is 153 miles total, but no one is checking. Do three miles, take a photo of a view, and tell everyone you "did a bit of the trail." They will be very impressed at dinner parties.
Sussex offers much the same appeal but with added chalk cliffs. Beachy Head and the Seven Sisters are genuinely breath taking, by which I mean the wind will take your breath away and possibly your hat. Birling Gap is excellent for fossil hunting, provided your idea of excitement is finding a 65-million-year-old shell and then Googling whether it is technically legal to keep it. (It is, mostly. Probably. Do not write to me if it is not.) Further inland, the South Downs Way provides more opportunity for wholesome striding, and the pubs along the route have had centuries to perfect the art of the ploughman's lunch.
Surrey and Hampshire tend to be overlooked, which is precisely why they are brilliant. The Surrey Hills are suspiciously pretty, almost as if someone has arranged them specifically for a watercolour painting. Frensham Ponds are glorious in summer, assuming you enjoy swimming in water that is roughly the temperature of a lightly chilled white wine. Hampshire gives you the New Forest, where ponies wander about with the entitled attitude of people who know they have right of way. You will sit in your car for twenty minutes while a pony considers whether to move. You will not mind. You are on holiday. This is what you paid for.
The food situation is, frankly, outrageous in the best possible way. This is not the land of the sad service station sandwich. This is the land of the Michelin-starred pub, the farm shop that sells cheese aged longer than some of my friendships, and the vineyard producing sparkling wine that makes you reconsider your loyalty to Champagne. Nyetimber in Sussex has been at it for years, and the results are genuinely excellent. Drink it on the terrace of your cottage while the sun goes down and pretend you have taste, even if you are secretly just pleased it gets you tipsy.
What the luxury cottage provides, above all else, is permission. Permission to read a book you have been pretending to have read for years. Permission to have a second breakfast because the first one was merely a warm-up. Permission to argue with your travelling companion about the correct way to load a dishwasher in a kitchen that is far too nice for either of you. Permission to look out at the English countryside and think, "Yes. This. This is exactly enough."
The South East will not give you the rugged drama of the Lakes or the Celtic mystery of Wales. It will give you something better: comfort, beauty, and the smug satisfaction of being within easy reach of a train home if it all goes wrong. Book the cottage. Pack the wellies. Forget the gym kit; you are not fooling anyone. Just go, and do nothing, gloriously.

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