I’ve just got back from the most brilliant week in a cosy holiday cottage in the Dales near Barnard Castle in County Durham, and honestly, the food was the absolute star of the show. Perched on the edge of the North Pennines, this little stone-built gem had a proper country kitchen that begged for some culinary adventures – or disasters, depending on how you look at it.

First morning, I pottered down to Barnard Castle’s weekly market, which is a proper treat for any foodie. Stalls groaning under piles of local cheeses from the Wensleydale Creamery – that tangy, crumbly stuff that melts in your mouth – and jars of Durham honey so golden it could double as sunshine. I nabbed some plump sausages from a butcher who swore they were made with secret moorland herbs, plus a punnet of rhubarb sharper than my wit. Back at the cottage, I fancied myself a chef and attempted a full English breakfast. Sausages sizzling, black pudding from the market (who knew it could be so good?), and eggs from a nearby farm shop. It was a triumph, apart from the bacon catching fire – note to self: cottage hobs run hotter than a Weardale summer.

Pub lunches became my daily religion. The Golden Lion in West Auckland, just a short drive away, served up the best pie I’ve had in ages: steak and ale encased in buttery pastry, with mash so creamy it was practically a hug. Paired with a pint of Black Sheep ale from the Yorkshire Dales (practically local), it hit the spot after a gentle wander. One afternoon, I overdid it on the portions and waddled back to the cottage reflecting on how my jeans were staging a quiet rebellion. Gentle self-reflection moment: maybe I should lay off the chips next time, but where’s the fun in that?

Evenings were for cottage cooking with a twist. I’d nipped into Darlington market midweek for fresh veg – beetroot the size of cricket balls and leeks that could’ve doubled as walking sticks – and tried my hand at a Northumberland-inspired lamb stew. Slow-cooked in the Aga with rosemary from the cottage garden, it turned out lush, mopped up with crusty bread from the local bakery. But the real hero was a disastrous attempt at sticky toffee pudding. I followed a recipe to the letter, yet it emerged more like a brick than a pud. Laughing at my soggy mess over a cuppa, I pondered how holidays reveal our inner Gordon Ramsay... or not. Salvaged it with ice cream from the farm shop, et voilà, dessert success.

No stay’s complete without a chippy tea from the Teesdale takeaway in the village – haddock so fresh it practically flapped, wrapped in batter crispier than autumn leaves. And for posher nosh, The Stables Tea Rooms in Bowes did cream teas that could convert a vegan: scones still warm, clotted cream mountains, and strawberry jam homemade on the premises.

County Durham’s food scene is unpretentious brilliance – hearty, local, and laced with that northern warmth. My cottage belly was full, my heart content, and I’m already plotting the next feast. If you’re after a holiday where the eating’s as good as the views, get yourself here pronto.