I’ll never forget the drive down to Dartmouth – that classic British road trip where you think you’ve got it all planned, only for a cheeky diversion to chuck a spanner in the works. We’d loaded up the car with the dog’s favourite toys, a boot full of wellies and waterproofs (just in case), and set off from Bristol full of that buzzy anticipation of a proper seaside escape. But halfway through, right near Totnes, we hit a massive tailback from some roadworks. Half an hour turned into an hour, and by the time we rolled into the coastal town, the sun was dipping low, painting the estuary in that golden light you only get in Devon. Still, it made arriving at our holiday apartment on Newcomen Road all the sweeter – this spacious, pet-friendly gem with its open-plan living space and a cracking electric fire waiting to cosy up to later.

First impressions? Spot on. Tucked away in the heart of Dartmouth, it felt like our own little haven, with those stunning coastal views just a glance out the window. We dumped the bags, clipped the lead on the dog, and headed straight out for a wander along the promenade. The air was crisp, that salty tang hitting you instantly, and the town was buzzing with locals and holidaymakers alike. Dartmouth’s got that perfect vibe – not too polished, just proper South Devon charm.

The next morning, we woke to blue skies and hit the trails early. Our first hike was up to Compass Cove, a gentle clifftop stroll with jaw-dropping views over the sea. The dog was in heaven, bounding ahead as we crunched along the South West Coast Path, spotting seals bobbing about below. We picnicked on pasties from the local bakery – proper job, flaky and steaming. Feeling smug about our weather luck, we planned a longer trek for the afternoon along the estuary towards Castle Cove.

But oh, the British weather – it’s got a wicked sense of humour, hasn’t it? No sooner had we set off than the clouds rolled in thick and fast, turning our sunny ramble into a proper downpour. We dashed for shelter under some overhanging trees, laughing as the rain hammered down, turning the path into a muddy slip-and-slide. Plans for a full coastal loop? Scrapped. Instead, we improvised with a shorter loop back through the wooded valley paths near Sugary Cove, where the drizzle made everything smell amazing – wet earth, wild garlic, the works. The dog didn’t care; he splashed through every puddle like it was his personal mission.

By evening, we were back in the apartment, dried off and toasting by the fire with mugs of tea. It got me thinking – isn’t that the joy of these Devon holidays? You come with grand ideas of epic hikes, but the weather keeps you on your toes, forcing these brilliant, spontaneous detours. We ended up doing more exploring that way, discovering hidden coves and quiet lanes we’d have missed otherwise. The next day brought a break in the clouds, so we tackled the climb to Warfleet Creek, rewarded with rain-fresh views and a rainbow arching right over the water. Blisters? A few. Muddy boots? Plenty. But grinning like idiots the whole time.

Those walking adventures, shaped by the ever-changing skies, made it unforgettable. If you’re after a base for Devon’s coastal paths with a dog in tow, this spot’s a winner. We’re already plotting our return – next time, I’m packing extra socks.