I’ll never forget the drive down to Stoke Fleming last autumn – the leaves were turning that gorgeous coppery gold, carpeting the lanes like nature’s own confetti, but of course, I managed to hit a cheeky traffic jam just outside Totnes. Some roadworks had us crawling along, and with the heater blasting against the crisp chill seeping through the windows, I was starting to wonder if we’d ever make it. Still, as we wound our way into the South Hams, the anticipation built; I could practically taste the sea air already, imagining cosy evenings wrapped in blankets with the waves crashing below.

Pulling up to the Ocean Breeze apartment building in the heart of the village felt like stumbling into a postcard. We buzzed through the secure gated entrance, parked in our allocated spot, and climbed the internal staircase to this cracking first-floor apartment. The contemporary vibe hit us straight away – high-quality furnishings, all sleek and inviting, with those far-reaching sea views that stretched out over the autumnal bay like a watercolour painting. We dumped our bags in the handy hallway space, perfect for stashing wellies and scarves, and I nipped for a quick soak in the tub to wash off the road dust. First impressions? Bloody marvellous – or rather, marvellously spot on for a proper autumn getaway.

Autumn shaped every bit of our stay here. Mornings dawned misty and cool, so we’d wrap up in layers and head out for bracing walks along the coastal path to Blackpool Sands, just a short stroll away. The beach was near-empty, save for a few dog-walkers, and the sea was that moody slate-grey, foaming against the pebbles with a chill wind that turned your cheeks rosy. No summer crowds meant we had the place to ourselves – we crunched through fallen leaves on the cliffs, spotting seals bobbing in the waves below, their sleek backs glistening in the weak sun. One afternoon, we even foraged for blackberries along the lanes, plump and tangy from the season’s kiss, turning them into a crumble that filled the flat with that irresistible warm, spicy scent.

Evenings were pure magic, thanks to the shorter days. We’d hunker down with mugs of tea, watching the sun dip early behind Start Point lighthouse, painting the sky in fiery oranges and purples. The sea views from the lounge were hypnotic as dusk fell, and with the heating humming gently, it felt like our own private cocoon. We ventured into the village a couple of times – Stoke Fleming’s Blackpool Tearoom did a cracking cream tea, sconces fluffy and clotted cream piled high, though the autumn chill made it all the more satisfying. One night, we wandered over to the local pub, the Green Dragon, for a pint by the fire; the chatter was all about harvest suppers and the first frosts, pulling you right into Devon life.

Looking back, that little mishap on the journey was a blessing – it made arriving feel like a triumph. Autumn lent this holiday a gentle magic you just don’t get in peak season; quieter paths, richer colours, and that cosy introspection as the days drew in. I caught myself one evening, staring out at the darkening sea, thinking how these slower escapes remind you to breathe, to savour the simple stuff. If you’re after a coastal retreat that lets the season steal the show, this corner of Devon in autumn is pure gold. We’re already plotting a return.