I’ll never forget the drive to our little hideaway in County Kerry last autumn – the leaves were turning that gorgeous coppery gold, carpeting the roads like nature’s own welcome mat. We’d piled into the car from Killarney, me navigating with my trusty phone (which, true to form, decided to lose signal just as we hit the winding lanes towards Beaufort). Cue a minor mishap: I took a wrong turn onto a narrow track, convinced we were heading for a sheep ambush, only to backtrack laughing at my daft sense of direction. But oh, the anticipation built with every twist – the air crisp through the cracked windows, promising cosy fires and misty walks.

Pulling up to the detached cottage in Churchtown, just three miles from Beaufort – the Gateway to the Ring of Kerry – we were smitten straight away. It’s this delightful spot, lovingly decorated with that warm, inviting charm perfect for a family getaway. Three double bedrooms, one with a fancy handcrafted four-poster bed that made us feel like minor royalty, and a country-style kitchen kitted out for everything from hearty stews to tea breaks by the open fire in the dining area. First impressions? Pure magic, especially as the autumn sun dipped low, casting a soft glow over the garden.

The season shaped every moment of our stay, turning it into a proper love letter to Kerry’s autumnal side. Mornings started with mist rolling off the nearby hills, perfect for wrapping up in scarves and heading out for gentle hikes along the trails around Beaufort. We wandered the Gap of Dunloe paths, no more than a few miles off, crunching through fallen leaves while the bracken glowed rusty red. The air had that fresh, earthy bite – invigorating, but not so chilly you couldn’t linger with a flask of coffee. One afternoon, we timed it just right for the Torc Waterfall trail, close enough for an easy jaunt; the cascade was thundering after recent rains, spray catching the fading light like liquid gold. I couldn’t help chuckling at myself, slipping on wet moss like a cartoon character – a gentle reminder that I’m no mountain goat, but these moments make you feel alive.

Evenings were all about that open fire crackling away, roasting local Kerry cheeses and sipping hot toddies while the wind whispered outside. We ventured into Beaufort village for a pint at the pub, where the locals spun yarns about the turning tides of the season, and popped to nearby spots like the Beaufort Garden for a nose around the autumn blooms – vibrant against the mellow backdrop. No need to stray far; the cottage felt like the heart of it all, with the landscape shifting daily – one day golden, the next veiled in soft fog that made everything feel secretive and snug.

Reflecting now, that Kerry autumn stay was a nudge to slow down. Amid the russet hues and quiet beauty, I realised how the season strips things back to simple joys – good company, warming fires, and nature’s showstopper colours. If you’re after a proper escape, this corner of Kerry in autumn is unbeatable. We’re already plotting a return.