I’ll never forget the drive to our holiday cottage near Kinvara – we’d piled into the car in Dublin after a cracking early start, only for the sat-nav to chuck us onto some winding back lane that turned into a muddy quagmire after a sudden downpour. Cue me swearing under my breath (quietly, mind) as we fishtailed through puddles, the kids in the back giggling like it was the best fun ever. But oh, the anticipation built as we neared the coast – that promise of salty air and endless horizons had us buzzing.

Pulling up to the cottage, just a short stroll from Kinvara’s charming fishing village, we were smitten straight away. This detached thatched-roof gem screamed cosy Irish welcome, perfect for our family crew. With a well-equipped kitchen for knocking up suppers, a separate sitting room with dining area and a cracking fireplace for toasting our toes, plus five double bedrooms and two bathrooms, it was spot on for everyone to spread out. The front garden begged for al fresco lunches, and the off-road parking was a godsend after our arrival drama.

We’d planned epic hikes along the wild Galway coast, and the first day delivered in spades. Blue skies lured us out for a breezy walk along Dunguaire Castle’s shadow – that 16th-century tower looming dramatically over the bay. We ambled the coastal path towards Kinvara Quay, spotting seals bobbing in the waves and gulls wheeling overhead. The kids raced ahead, filling buckets with seaweed treasures, while I lagged behind, soaking in the fierce Atlantic beauty. Lunch in the garden under blazing sun felt like pure magic.

But this is Ireland, and British holidaymakers like us know the weather’s a fickle friend. Next morning, the heavens opened – proper horizontal rain that turned our ambitious trek to the nearby Flaggy Shore into a comedy of errors. Waterproofs on, hoods flapping, we sloshed along the rocky path anyway, laughing as waves crashed like they were auditioning for a disaster movie. The views through the mist were haunting, all rugged cliffs and crashing surf, but by halfway, numb toes and squelching boots had us retreating. Back at the cottage, we huddled by the stove, brewing tea and playing cards – a gentle reminder that sometimes the best adventures are the ones that force you to slow down.

A brighter day followed, and we nailed a gentler loop around Kinvara’s salt marshes, dodging sheep and chatting with a local fisherman who reckoned we’d timed it right for low tide. The changeable skies kept us on our toes – sun one minute, drizzle the next – but that’s the joy of west coast walking, isn’t it? No two outings the same.

Reflecting now, that mishap drive and weather whims made the trip. We could’ve sulked indoors, but embracing the lot – the glowers and glories – knit us closer. If you’re after a base for footloose family fun in Galway, this spot’s a winner. Just pack extra socks.