I’ll never forget the drive over to Anglesey last autumn – the leaves were turning that gorgeous coppery gold, carpeting the A55 like a rumpled picnic blanket. Me and the other half were buzzing with that proper holiday anticipation, windows down, radio blaring some indie playlist, dreaming of cosy firesides and bracing coastal walks. But typical me, I missed the turn for the Britannia Bridge in the drizzle and ended up looping back through some tiny lanes, swearing under my breath (well, mildly tutting) while the sat-nav had a right old meltdown. Half an hour late, but hey, it only added to the adventure.

Pulling up to our two-bedroom spot in Cemaes Bay, I was gobsmacked by the first impressions. Nestled above the owners’ artisan café in this postcard-pretty village amid the rolling hills, it screamed perfect autumn escape – pet-friendly too, which was a godsend for our scruffy labradoodle, Milo. The whole place had this warm, welcoming vibe, like it was waiting just for us. We dashed down for a late lunch at the café below – steaming bowls of Welsh rarebit and hearty soup that hit the spot after the rain-lashed drive. With the beach just a short stroll away and the Anglesey AONB practically on the doorstep, it felt like we’d stumbled into a hug from nature itself.

Autumn shaped every minute of our stay, turning what could’ve been a standard break into something magical. The sea was that moody slate-grey, whipping up frothy waves that crashed against Cemaes Bay’s pebbled shore – ideal for wrapping up in scarves and wellies for those invigorating dog walks at low tide. We’d crunch through windfall apples on the paths, Milo bounding ahead, while the low sun painted everything in honeyed light. One afternoon, we hit the harbour for a boat trip out to see the seals basking on the rocks; the skipper pointed out puffins bobbing in the choppy Irish Sea, their autumn plumage all fluffed up against the chill. Back at the flat, we’d collapse into the comfy living-dining room, firing up the oven for a roast – the kitchen was kitted out with every gadget going, from cafetière to chopping boards galore. Pouring a cheeky glass of red, we’d plan the next day from the first-floor windows, mesmerised by the fiery sunsets over the bay.

Evenings were pure bliss. After a soak in the tub or a quick shower, we’d bunk down in the double or twin rooms – both with tellies for bingeing Strictly (it was that time of year). Or we’d head to the patio for an alfresco supper under the fairy lights, huddled in blankets as the stars popped out crisp and clear, the air scented with damp earth and woodsmoke from nearby chimneys. There’s secure storage for wetsuits and boots too, though we stuck to gentler pursuits like foraging for blackberries along the coastal path – turned them into a crumble that tasted of the season.

Reflecting on it now, that little mishap en route was a reminder to slow down, innit? Autumn in Cemaes Bay stripped everything back to simple joys – no crowds, just us, the dog, and the wild Welsh wind. If you’re after a tranquil getaway that lets the time of year wrap around you like a favourite jumper, this is the spot. We’re already plotting a return for next year’s leaf-peeping.