I’ll never forget the drive over to Anglesey – we piled into the car from Cheshire, full of beans after a fry-up breakfast, only for me to take a wrong turn just past the Britannia Bridge and end up looping through some tiny lanes that felt like they hadn’t seen daylight since the Romans. Classic me, always relying on sat-nav but ignoring the signs. Still, it added a bit of unintended adventure, and by the time we rolled up, the sun was peeking through, building that proper holiday buzz. I was buzzing to see what awaited us.

Pulling into the drive of this cracking luxury detached house near Llanbedrgoch, just 1.9 miles from Benllech and 2.5 from Red Wharf Bay, we were gobsmacked. It’s the sort of place perfect for our group of eight mates and family – smart, welcoming, with an open-plan setup that screams “relax here”. We dumped our bags in the utility room (handy spot for coats and wellies), then straight into the living area. Breakfast bar for chit-chat while someone faffs with the shiny coffee machine, and a big dining table for proper catch-ups. First impressions? Spot on. Felt like home, but posher.

Day one, weather was glorious – blue skies, light breeze off the sea. We laced up and headed out for a coastal walk towards Benllech. That stretch along the clifftops is pure magic: rugged paths winding past dunes, gulls wheeling overhead, and the Irish Sea sparkling like it’s showing off. We stopped for paddles in rock pools, kids (and big kids like me) skimming stones. Proper idyllic, with laughs echoing as we raced to the beach. By teatime, we were knackered but chuffed, collapsing back at the house for a massive pasta feast.

Next morning, classic British weather decided to gatecrash. Grey skies rolled in overnight, and by breakfast it was lashing down – wind howling like a Welsh dragon. No way were we letting it ruin things, though. We rugged up in waterproofs and hit a shorter loop inland from the property, towards the fields near Llanbedrgoch. Muddy tracks turned into a comedy slip-and-slide; I went arse-over-tit into a puddle at one point, which had everyone in stitches. “You daft sod,” my mate chuckled, hauling me up. But it was brilliant – that fresh, earthy smell after rain, spotting sheep huddled under hedges, and a rainbow popping out as reward. We adapted, turning it into a treasure hunt for the little ones, finding the best sticks and shiny stones.

By day three, the weather flipped again – misty but dry – so we pushed for Red Wharf Bay. The path there hugs the coast, dipping through grassy links and up sandy rises. Bit of a huff on the ups, but those views over the bay, waves crashing on the pebbles? Worth every laboured breath. We picnicked in a sheltered cove, thermos of tea steaming away. Reflecting on it now, those weather swings were the real star. They forced us to improvise, turning potential washouts into memories – the good days for epic strides, the grim ones for daft giggles in the muck. Made me realise how I sometimes stick to plans too rigidly back home; out here, rolling with the rain just makes everything richer.

We clocked miles of those walks, from sunny saunters to soggy scrambles, all within easy reach. If you’re after a spot where the hikes shape your holiday – sunshine or squalls – this corner of Anglesey’s unbeatable. Can’t wait to go back.