I’ll never forget the drive to Barmouth last autumn – leaves turning that gorgeous coppery gold all along the A496, the air crisp enough to make you fancy a hot cuppa before we’d even parked. It was mid-October, that sweet spot where summer’s heat has faded but the crowds haven’t fully scarpered yet, and we were buzzing for a proper Welsh seaside getaway. Me, my other half, and our two lads, aged 10 and 12, piled into the car from Shrewsbury, singing along to some dodgy 90s playlist. But about halfway, disaster struck: a puncture on a sneaky pothole just outside Fairbourne. We limped into a layby, hearts sinking as the rain started spitting, wondering if our holiday was jinxed before it began. Twenty minutes and a spare tyre later (cheers to AA membership), we were off again, anticipation building as the Mawddach Estuary came into view, all misty and magical in the fading light.

Pulling up to our four-storey apartment near the beach in the heart of Barmouth felt like striking gold. First impressions? Spot on. Tucked away yet central, with those stunning countryside views stretching out over the hills – perfect for that autumnal glow when the sun dips low and paints everything amber. We had two parking passes for the main car parks, which was a godsend in a town that gets busy even off-season. It’s got this characterful vibe, ample space for us to sprawl out, and on the second floor, a queen-size bedroom with its own telly and a cracking en-suite (bath, heated towel rail, double basin – luxury after a long drive). Next door, the family room with three single beds was ideal for the boys, who claimed it instantly as their den.

That time of year shaped everything, didn’t it? No scorching sand to burn your feet; instead, brisk walks along the promenade with the sea whispering under slate-grey skies, gulls wheeling overhead. We’d wake to that electric fire crackling away, mugs of tea in hand, watching mist roll off the hills – pure bliss for unwinding. Mornings meant bracing beachcombing on the wide sands, kicking through seaweed and collecting driftwood, the boys turning into mini explorers as the tide raced in. Lunch at a chippy on High Street, vinegar sharp in the cool air, then hikes up to Dinas Oleu for panoramic views where the autumn colours popped like a painting – russets and ochres against the deep blue sea.

Afternoons, we’d cosy up with board games as the light faded early, or wander the harbour watching fishing boats bob, the scent of woodsmoke from beach barbecues mingling with salt. One evening, we caught a rare sunset over Cardigan Bay, all fiery oranges bleeding into the horizon – made me pause and think, you know? In the rush of school runs and work, I forget how a simple change of season can reset you. No tan lines, mind, but hearts full. A mate remarked we looked windswept and healthier for it.

Barmouth in autumn? It’s not the poster-child summer jaunt, but that’s its charm – quieter paths, cozier evenings, and a reminder that holidays aren’t about sunbathing but soaking in the now. We left reluctantly, already plotting a return. If you’re after a seaside escape that feels real, not rushed, go now – before the frost bites.