I finally made it to our holiday cottage near Llandudno after what felt like the world's most reluctant road trip. We'd set off from Manchester full of beans, me navigating with my trusty phone and my mate Dave behind the wheel, blasting out some classic Oasis to get us in the mood. But about halfway in, disaster struck – a massive flock of sheep decided to stage a sit-in right across the A55, turning our smooth cruise into a two-hour standstill. Dave was fuming (silently, bless him), and I was left pondering life's big questions, like why do sheep always pick rush hour? Still, by the time we pulled up to the cosy little detached cottage set high above Eglwysbach village, the frustration melted away. Perched with cracking views over the rolling hills, it was love at first sight – compact, welcoming, with a garden that begged for a cuppa and a gaze at the Conway Valley. We were buzzing already, dreaming of the adventures ahead.

First morning, the sun was out like it meant business, so we laced up our walking boots for a gentle stroll down into Eglwysbach. The village pub looked proper inviting even from afar, but we pressed on, following a trail that wound through lush fields dotted with bleating lambs. It was pure Welsh magic – birds chirping, wildflowers nodding in the breeze, and not a soul in sight. We fancied ourselves as intrepid explorers, stopping for snaps at every viewpoint. Lunch was a cheeky pasty from the village shop, scoffed on a bench with views that made you forget the sheep saga entirely.

But oh, British weather – you cheeky devil. By afternoon, the sky turned from blue to battleship grey faster than you can say "soggy socks." Our planned hike up to the RSPB Reserve for some birdwatching got binned when the heavens opened. Instead, we dashed back to the cottage, brewed endless teas, and watched the rain lash the windows while plotting Plan B. Next day, it cleared just enough for a proper go at it. We drove the short hop to Conway – that stunning World Heritage spot with its castle looming like something from a fairy tale – and tackled the town walls for a windy circuit. Blimey, the views over the harbour and those independent shops below were breathtaking, even as a sneaky drizzle tried to spoil the fun.

The weather kept us on our toes the whole week. One epic climb along the nearby trails turned into a comedy of errors when fog rolled in thick as pea soup – we ended up looping back, laughing at our rubbish sense of direction. But that's the joy of it, isn't it? Those challenging paths with their panoramic payoffs, from river glimpses to hilltop panoramas, made every muddy step worth it. We even squeezed in a riverside wander for a spot of fishing (well, Dave did; I mostly admired the scenery and failed spectacularly at casting).

Looking back, as I sit here with my post-holiday laundry pile, I reckon that's what holidays like this are about – not flawless sunshine marches, but adapting to the whims of the Welsh hills. The cottage was our perfect base, high up and handy for lacing up again tomorrow. If you're after hikes that mix gentle ambles with heart-pumping climbs, all spiced with unpredictable weather that keeps you guessing, this corner of Llandudno's doorstep is spot on. Can't wait to go back.