I’ll never forget the drive to Llandudno that crisp autumn afternoon – leaves swirling like confetti across the A55, and me cursing under my breath when we hit a cheeky traffic jam just past Conway. We’d set off from Manchester full of beans, sandwiches packed and the sat nav promising a breezy hour-and-a-half jaunt. But no, some daft roadworks turned it into a crawl, and by the time we escaped, the sun was dipping low, painting the hills in that golden glow only October can muster. Still, it built the anticipation – I was buzzing to see the North Wales coast in its cosy shoulder season, all misty mornings and fewer crowds.

Pulling up to our first-floor apartment in a quiet residential spot just shy of a mile from Rhos-on-Sea’s charming seafront, we were smitten straight away. Up those six steps from the road, and there it was: our private patio begging for a cuppa, with French doors swinging open to a lounge that screamed ‘relaxation station’. Recently spruced up, it had this brilliant gas fire that we lit pronto against the chill – perfect for a couple like us, or even a small family. First impressions? Spot on. The space felt airy yet snug, and that autumn light streaming in made everything feel like a proper treat.

We wasted no time settling in, the season dictating our every move. Mornings kicked off with frosty walks along Rhos-on-Sea promenade, where the waves crashed with a bit more gusto under those brooding skies, and the promenade cafés still hummed with locals nursing hot chocolates. No summer hordes meant we had the pebble beach to ourselves, skimming stones and breathing in that briny air sharpened by the nip. One day, we ambled into Colwyn Bay, barely a mile up the coast – the Victorian pier wrapped in fairy lights even in October, and we scoffed fish and chips from a hut, the wind whipping our scarves while gulls eyed our chips hopefully. Hilarious moment: I tried ‘assisting’ a pensioner untangle her wind-blown brolly, only to get soaked myself. Proper British comedy gold.

Afternoons were for pottering – a gentle hike up the Little Orme, where bracken turned fiery red and the sea views stretched forever under scudding clouds. The cooler weather made it invigorating, not exhausting, and we’d return to fire up that lounge hearth, feet up with a stew bubbling away. Evenings brought the magic: sunset strolls back to Rhos-on-Sea, watching the sky bruise purple over the bay, then cosying in with board games and a cheeky bottle of red. No blaring music from partygoers; just the hush of falling leaves and distant waves.

Reflecting on it now, that autumn hush was the real star. Summer’s frenzy would’ve drowned the peace, but October wrapped it all in quiet wonder – fewer folk, richer colours, and a chance to properly unwind. We left feeling recharged, already plotting a return. If you’re after a laid-back Welsh coastal escape, this time of year’s the ticket.