I finally made it to Llandudno after what felt like the longest drive from Manchester, complete with a cheeky little mishap when I took a wrong turn onto the A55 and ended up in a queue of caravans crawling along like they had all day. Still, as the Victorian pier came into view with the sea sparkling under patchy clouds, my heart lifted – I'd been buzzing about this getaway for weeks, dreaming of coastal walks and proper Welsh fresh air.

Pulling up to the ground-floor apartment right in the town centre, I was chuffed to bits. It's this cosy, family-friendly spot with an open-plan living area that's spot-on for kicking back, a cracking kitchen for knocking up breakfasts, two comfy king-size bedrooms with smart TVs, and – get this – a private rear garden with a patio, outdoor furniture, and a bubbling hot tub that screamed 'relaxation'. First impressions? Pure bliss after the drive.

Day one dawned bright, so I laced up my boots for the classic stroll along the North Shore beach promenade. The sun was out, waves crashing gently, and families building sandcastles – proper holiday vibes. I pushed on up the West Shore path, that gentle incline giving cracking views over the bay towards the Great Orme. It's only a couple of miles but feels like a proper hike, with gorse bushes buzzing with bees and the sea breeze keeping things fresh. I even spotted a seal bobbing about offshore. Lunch was fish and chips from a beachside van, eaten on a bench while the sun warmed my face. Couldn't have asked for better.

But oh, the British weather – it loves a plot twist. Next morning, I woke to horizontal rain lashing the windows, turning my grand plan for the Orme headland hike into a non-starter. No way was I trudging up those steep cliffs in a downpour; I'd end up looking like a drowned rat. So, we pivoted to indoor adventures: a wander through Happy Valley's botanical gardens, where the lush ferns and colourful beds were a riot of green even in the wet. The paths are well-maintained, sheltered spots aplenty, and it felt like a sneaky hike without the sogginess. Popped into Maisie's Chocolate Shop afterwards for hot chocolate and fudge – pure comfort on a drizzly day.

By afternoon, the clouds parted just enough for another go at the prom, this time towards the pier end. We braved the pier's creaky boards, arcade games pinging away, and grabbed pints at The Albert, that old-school pub with its cosy nooks. Evening called for the hot tub under a clearing sky – steaming away the chill, toes tingling, with the garden feeling like our own private spa.

Reflecting on it now, sat here with a cuppa, that weather flip taught me something: flexibility's the real key to a cracking holiday. One minute you're conquering coastal paths in sunshine, the next dodging showers for garden rambles and tub soaks. Llandudno's got it all on your doorstep, rain or shine, and I came home fitter, happier, and already plotting the next rainy-day hike. If you're after a base for proper walking adventures with a side of pampering, this is the spot.