I’ll never forget the drive up to North Wales last autumn – the leaves were turning that gorgeous coppery gold, carpeting the A55 like a proper Welsh welcome mat. Me and my partner were buzzing with anticipation, dreaming of cosy nights in after days out in the crisp air. But typical me, I took a wrong turn just past Bangor, ending up on some narrow lane that had us laughing (and panicking a bit) as sat-nav lost its marbles. We stumbled into Llanystumdwy half an hour late, but oh, what a first impression! There it was, this sweet all-ground-floor semi-detached cottage tucked in the village, just inland from the Llyn Heritage Coast. From the moment we pulled up, it felt like stepping into a hug – perfect for us two, with its private enclosed patio and that bubbling hot tub calling our names under the fading sun.

Autumn in this neck of the woods is magic, isn’t it? The season shaped every bit of our stay. Mornings started with that fresh, misty chill rolling in from the coast – only 2.2 miles to Criccieth, mind – so we’d linger in the open-plan living space, tub chairs pulled up for a brew and some telly. The kitchen was a dream for knocking up brunch: electric oven, hob, wee fridge-freezer, and a dishwasher that meant no faffing about with washing up. We’d rustle up bacon butties or Welsh rarebit, windows cracked to let in the earthy scent of fallen leaves.

Venturing out, the cooler weather made everything feel alive. We wandered the coastal paths at Black Rock Sands, just a short hop away, boots crunching through crunchy bracken, the sea all steely grey and dramatic under scudding clouds. One afternoon, we hit Criccieth Castle – that ancient ruin perched on the headland, winds whipping up as the sun dipped low, painting the sky in fiery oranges. It was bracing, proper autumnal stuff, with gulls wheeling overhead and the odd shower sending us scarpering for shelter. Back at the cottage, we’d thaw out with a dip in the hot tub – pure bliss as the steam rose into the chilly evening air, surrounded by the rustle of wind in the trees. Alfresco dining on the patio furniture? Aye, wrapped in blankets with mulled wine and pasties from the local shop, watching the stars pop out sharp and bright.

There was this gentle moment one evening, sat there in the double bedroom after a shower in the neat little bathroom – wardrobe full of our stuff, bed all plush and inviting. I caught myself reflecting: life’s been a whirl lately, but this quiet corner, with autumn wrapping it all in that mellow glow, reminded me how good it is to just switch off. No crowds, just us, the season’s soft melancholy, and the coast’s whisper. We even chatted about booking the neighbouring spots next time for a bigger gang – up to eight of us, apparently.

Honestly, if you’re after a romantic Welsh getaway where autumn does the heavy lifting – turning walks into adventures and evenings into luxury – this is the spot. Left us recharged, cheeks rosy from the wind, hearts full. Can’t wait to go back.