I’ll never forget the drive to Aberdovey last autumn – leaves turning that glorious copper and gold all along the A493, the kind of Welsh scenery that makes you pull over every five minutes for a snap. We’d set off from Shrewsbury full of beans, dreaming of cosy nights by the fire after days tramping Snowdonia’s trails. But about halfway, disaster struck: a rogue sheep decided our lane was prime grazing and planted itself bang in the middle. Cue 20 minutes of gentle coaxing with a carrier bag (me flapping like a fool while the kids giggled from the car). Classic rural Wales, eh? Still, it only added to the anticipation – by the time we crested the hill into town, hearts were racing for what lay ahead.

Pulling up to this large family home – a proper welcoming six-bedder perched high above the Dyfi Estuary – we were gobsmacked. It’s the ideal base for dipping into Snowdonia’s southern edges, with those jaw-dropping views sweeping out from the lounge windows over the shimmering sea, the rugged mountains, and the estuary’s bird-filled waters. One dog-friendly spot too, which had our labrador tail-wagging before we’d even unpacked. First impressions? Pure magic in that crisp October light – golden hour bathing everything in a soft glow, the air already carrying that earthy, leaf-mulch scent that screams autumn.

The season shaped every minute. Mornings started with steaming mugs of tea on the balcony, watching mist lift off the hills as gulls wheeled over the estuary. We’d bundle into coats and wellies for walks along Aberdovey’s beach – not the summer crowds, thank goodness, but peaceful sands littered with driftwood and the odd crab shell, perfect for skimming stones. The tide’s moods were captivating; one day it rushed in fast under slate-grey skies, forcing us into a hasty retreat with laughs echoing off the dunes. Evenings, we’d light the wood-burner (logs piled high, bless the hosts) and tuck into slow-cooked Welsh lamb, the windows framing a sunset that turned the mountains pink and orange. It felt like the property was made for this time of year – those elevated views meant we caught every shift in the weather, from sudden squalls rattling the panes to rare starry nights where you could almost taste the frost coming.

We ventured just up the road to the footpaths snaking into Snowdonia’s lower reaches – think gentle climbs through bracken turning rusty, with vistas over the estuary that stopped us in our tracks. One afternoon, we picnicked near Penhelig Rocks, the autumn sun weak but warming our faces as seals bobbed curiously offshore. The kids built dens from fallen branches, and I had one of those quiet moments, sitting there with a thermos, reflecting on how these shorter days make you savour the light more. No rushing about; just proper family time, wrapped in that golden, fleeting season. Back at the house, board games by lamplight as rain pattered outside – bliss.

Aberdovey in autumn? It’s like the landscape’s putting on a private show just for you. If you’re after a holiday that feels alive with the turn of the year, this is your spot. We’re already plotting a return.