I’ll never forget the drive down to Tenby last autumn – the leaves were turning that gorgeous coppery shade, carpeting the roads like nature’s own welcome mat. Me and the family piled into the car from Bristol, full of excitement for a cosy break in a holiday cottage near Saint Florence. But typical me, I took a wrong turn somewhere near Carmarthen, ending up on a narrow lane that had me white-knuckling the wheel as tractors squeezed past. Half an hour late and swearing off sat-navs forever (until the next time), we finally rolled into the village just as the sun dipped low, painting everything in that golden late-October light.

Pulling up to our three-bed cottage, I felt that proper buzz of anticipation – you know, that mix of “please let it be as good as the pics” and “this is going to be brilliant”. And blimey, first impressions didn’t disappoint. It was this charming, snug spot tucked along the River Ritec, all welcoming with its homely vibe and perfect for our little crew. We dumped the bags and cracked open a bottle of wine as the evening chill set in, the kind that makes you grateful for a crackling fire (or at least a decent radiator).

Autumn in Pembrokeshire shaped the whole trip in the best way. Mornings started misty over the river, with that crisp air that nips at your cheeks and turns your breath to puffs of dragon smoke. We’d wander the quiet lanes of Saint Florence, kicking through crunchy leaves past the old church, feeling miles away from the world. A quick four-mile hop to Tenby was magic – the harbour all aglow with those colourful boats bobbing in the calmer seas, and the beaches near-empty save for dog-walkers and the odd brave swimmer in a wetsuit. No summer crowds meant we had Caldey Island boat trips practically to ourselves; puffins might’ve scarpered, but seals lounged about like they owned the place, and the monk-made fudge was a cheeky highlight.

One afternoon, we nipped over to Manorbier, just three miles away, where the castle loomed dramatically on its clifftop, wind whipping the turning gorse into a frenzy. The sandy bay below was ours for a blustery picnic – pasties from Tenby’s bakery, devoured while waves crashed with that autumn roar. Closer to home, a mile up the road, Manor Wildlife Park was a treat for the kids; feeding the lemurs as leaves swirled around felt like stepping into a storybook, minus the overcrowding you get in peak season.

Evenings back at the cottage were pure autumn bliss – hearty stews bubbling away, board games by lamplight as rain pattered on the windows. There was this gentle moment one night, staring out at the dark river, when I caught myself reflecting: rushing about life back home, I forget how a change of season like this resets you. No tan lines or sunburn, just that deep, earthy contentment. We left with rosy cheeks, full bellies, and a promise to return – next time, maybe with a better map. If you’re after a peaceful Pembrokeshire escape, snag a spot like this in the autumn; it’s Wales at its most soul-stirring.