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Luxury Holiday Cottages in Scotland

 

 

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There’s a kind of madness that takes over you when you choose to give up the central heating of a city flat for a stone cottage in the Scottish Highlands. You think it’s about “getting back to nature,” but tell me, like, when you’re booking a luxury cottage, you’re really just looking for nature with a much better thread count and a Nespresso machine. I had been staring from side to side at a loch, a sheet of hammered silver, from floor to ceiling, through a glass window. My temporary home was a lesson in “rustic chic” — in “exposed oak beams,” “flagstone floors,” and “underfloor heating,” plus ample woollen throws to cover a small village. It's odd to sit in a designer armchair with a glass of 12-year-old malt and watch a sheep outside look at you with pity, as the horizontal rain continues to come down.
The Art of the Slow Morning.
One of the first rules of luxury staying in Scotland is don’t hurry. As much as the sun doesn’t seem to care to get up before 8:00 AM, why should we? I learned about my wood-burning stove on my first morning. Building a fire is a primal satisfaction, even though it took three ecological firelighters and a YouTube tutorial to begin. With the cottage well-warming, I headed out to the nearby village. In Scotland, a village "shop" is an enchanted construct that sells everything from artisanal sourdough to industrial-strength Wellington boots. I chose the former: some local smoked salmon, a salmon that seemed to have been cured by the gods themselves. Chasing Legends and Castles. Although the desire to remain confined in cashmere was great, I still felt a moral duty to observe the sights. I went to Eilean Donan Castle. You’ve seen it in every postcard and in half the movies ever made, but to see it in the flesh is different. It hovers at the crossroads of three sea lochs, seemingly dreadfully moody and significant. I was standing on the bridge, looking reflective and rugged, but all I could see was if the gift shop was actually selling those shortbread tins with the Westie dogs on them. (They did. I bought three.) The next visit was the mandatory pilgrimage to Loch Ness. I didn't ever see Nessie, but I still saw a lot of optimistic tourists with very expensive binoculars. There’s something wonderfully human about standing on a cold shoreline and looking out at a dark body of water, hoping a prehistoric monster will come up and say hello. I grabbed a brisk walk through the ruins of Urquhart Castle instead. The history is thick enough to trip over, and the views across the water are even more soul-stirring without the presence of a sea serpent.
The "Damp" Reality.
Let’s talk about the weather. In Scotland, rain isn't an event; it’s a personality trait of the landscape. They have about fifty words for rain, ranging from a “smirr” to a “downpour.” I experienced at least forty of them. But there is a definite satisfaction in getting thoroughly soaked on a hike up a glen, for the same reason you are sure there is a roll-top bath and a heated towel rail waiting to meet you back in the cottage. Reflections from the Sofa. As my journey progressed, I soon came to understand that the luxury was not limited to the sumptuous kitchen or to that Egyptian cotton. It was the silence. The only sound in the evenings, with the shadows stretching out over the heather-swept hills, was the “clack,” a cooling log in the fire. Scotland has a way of making you feel tiny, beautiful, and very lucky. You arrive here for the dramatic landscapes and the history, but you stick around for that sense of being utterly enclosed from the world outside. Even if you need to run your emails periodically over the cottage’s surprisingly speedy Wi-Fi, you do so donning a pair of complimentary sheepskin slippers. And really, isn’t that what life is about?

 

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